London Fashion Week’s Freshest Beasts
Oct 2, 2009
Text by Al Jackson
Last week B.East just about managed to strike a professional relationship with all the models (cheers for fondling my grubby B.East, Ksenia!) and Camp ‘Arry’s – cocktails and otherwise – and, amazingly, stuck to it long enough to hunt-down the freshest eastie-designers who took this year’s On/Off by the throat. After the détente, well, ungallant behaviour ensued…
First to get us salivating was the latest offering from Kokon To Zai (KTZ), cult label from Marjan Pejoski (creator of Björk’s iconic Swan Dress) and Sasko Bezovski and currently coveted by Lady Gaga and Fisherspooner.
The Macedonian duo’s collection, Galaxy High, is inspired by the 1980s American cartoon of the same name, where two High School students find themselves transported to a space-school to represent Earth. Doyle, a stereotypical jock (football star, heartthrob, popular) struggles to fit in while Wendy, a nerd, becomes the most desirable girl in school.
It’s topsy-turvy, bubblegum, stuff with loads of bizarre alien characters so was a perfect fit for KTZ who wanted to present a futuristic view on retro-Americana, with lashings of early 90s/tribal patterns and brilliant, kaleidoscopic colours.
“The show aired in 1986,” explained Marjan and Sasko, “so we were probably in Macedonia watching it hungover after a legendary breakfast of burek and youghurt,” the guys admitted. “It’s alien milkshakes and cherry-pie stuff. The boys are jocks and the girls are cheer-leaders.”
The runway show was all about high-energy, attitude and a sense of fun, with models ranging from otherworldly girls to nerdy dudes and thickset sports-types at odds with the effete male models more commonly seen.
For the ladies, there was lots of delicate floral panelling combined with stark, prominent zippers on tracksuit-type tops.“London summers are getting hotter… FACT,” explained Marjan and Sasko. “So, the outfits reflect that. As far as the combinations are concerned, the label always uses stark contrasts and duality as a part of it’s signature.”
Elsewhere, there were cut-and-sawn polka dot and floral dresses, metalics, calliper-stockings (!!!) and scarf print – all of which found favour among buyers. “It’s all about sexy with a twist for the girls.”
And for the boys? “Oversized” came the answer: baggy trousers, American football jerseys, hi-top trainers and caps. With all bold patterns and vivid colours the show could’ve featured in an intergalactic version of Keith Haring’s NY Pop Shop.
The show’s music was absolutely bangin’ too, everyone from the front row back was writhing in their seats to the infectious beats, including a heavily pregnant but radiant Roisin Murphy, of Moloko.Would the boys like to see our Roisin in KTZ clobber? “Of course, she has such a strong sense of individual style.” And this kinda sums up KTZ, the duo clearly revelling in the local atmosphere: “the strong connection with music, the individuality, the hedonism and the bravado – we love the London scene,” admitted the lads.
Even if LFW overlaps with New York, meaning some buyers skip straight to Milan? “It’s just a question of money,” they answered, “London is definitely on the up. There’s a lot of investment from London Mayor, Boris Johnson. We love Bo-Jo.”
Any question that KTZ had a good time was a no-brainer but was there a ‘most inspiring’ moment for the KTZ guys? Indeed there was: “the VIP buyer (who shall remain nameless) running to catch the show and falling on her face! She still remained glamorous!”
Tags: Galaxy High, Kokon To Zai, London Fashion Week, Macedonia, Marjan Pejoski, Moloko, Roisin Murphy, Sasko Bezovski
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